Are Gambesons depicted on the Franks Casket?
I have been looking for contemporary references or illustrations of a Gambeson or Thoromacus, which is padding worn under armor or alone. While many assumed that they were worn between the fall of Rome in the west and the 12th century, there is little evidence to go on.
There are hints on the Bayeaux Tapestry, some 'hauberks' are depicted with a diamond pattern rather than ring pattern. Some assert this diamond pattern indicates a padded gambeson, rather than mail. If we are to go by the marginal illustrations of mail being stripped from the bodies, we might assume they wore nothing at all under their mail.
Also, the 'rings' of the mail can be seen when the garment is turned inside out (while being pulled over the deceased wearer's head). That might indicate that a padded (or other) lining was not fixed (permantently or not) to the mail. The mail shirt found at the Sutton Hoo site was apparently found 'balled up as if in a bag', with no indication that there was any sort of lining permanently fixed to it. The same is reported of the mail shirt (?) found at Gjermundbu, there is no evidence of any sort of lining associated with the find. So perhaps we can assume that the lining, whether a padded garment (gambeson or thormacus) or something else (heavy fabric, or leather) was not integral with the mail shirt.
After
looking at the top of the Franks Casket (circa 700), I am wondering if it doesn't depict two figures wearing gambesons.
Is this figure wearing a helmet similar to the 'crested' type found at Coppergate, York? Compared his attire with the others. If he is wearing a helmet, then perhaps it is reasonable to hypothesize he is also wearing a mail shirt.
If the helmeted figure is wearing mail, then what are these figures wearing?
Some people assert they are wearing mail, suggesting that their textured surface represents mail. But if they can afford mail, why don't they also have helmets, etc. Why are they shown smaller than the larger and apparently principal figures? It is reasonable to think that the principal figures in the picture would be the highest status...and mail clad. Could they be wearing padded gambesons? Do we have a picture here of four warriors, two important men wearing mail, and two wearing only their thoromachus?
There
are details at the necks and cuffs of some of the figures that may show that the mailed figures also have other garments
(such as a gambeson) under their mail. Have a look at the cuffs of the two possibly mailed warriors.
The right hand cuff of the mailed warrior on the left
and
the right hand cuff of the mailed warrior on the right
. Could the
double cuff show that they are wearing an additional garment under their mail shirt?
This
figure with the thormachus, has only one cuff at his right hand,
.
Although
the other thormachus wearer, does show two cuffs at his right hand,
. But the
right most lower rank figure appears to be unfinished, notice how the detail between the sword hand and the bottom of his thormachus is unfinished.
So
maybe the artist made more than one mistake?
For more information on an interpretation of a Roman thoromachus, have a look here: http://www.larp.com/legioxx/subarm.html
Let me know what you think.